Lisbon is a vibrant city. From the moment I stepped foot off my train from Madrid, I experienced an instant burst of energy. I sensed the same energy pulse through all the other travellers, disembarking after the long overnight slog in uncomfortable seating for those who opted not to splurge the extra euros on a bed. With the help of the local tourist information office, I was armed with a map and all I needed to know on how to get around using Lisbon’s efficient and simple metro system. I was after the Azul line indicated by an image of a seabird, according to my scribbled directions on a napkin I made whilst in Madrid’s Atocha train station.
Exiting the Metro at Restauradores station (into Restauradores Square), I was overwhelmed by the open space of the city. I was expecting the narrow and windy streets of the Alfama neighbourhood I’d become familiar with in pictures. The main street was wide with large trees and many fountains leading to the large squares of the city. You almost feel as if you’re in a beach town version of Madrid – the Spanish influence in the architecture is highly visible. However, Lisbon does not have its own beaches and to reach the nicer beaches of Estoril and Caiscais is around a 40-minute train trip each way, the further you travel from Lisbon, the nicer and less crowded the beaches become.
Underneath the Spanish influence of Lisbon’s architecture there is a real flair and energy of Portugal that brings travellers from all over to this city. I spied the famous yellow tram, the “Subida da Gloria”, covered in graffiti and tags, with tracks snaking up a hill to what must be a most spectacular view of the city.
Subida da Gloria. Lisbon, Portugal.
Trying to decipher my scribbled napkin and locate the street to my hostel, I realised it was the steep hill with the iconic yellow Lisbon tram covered in graffiti I had just been admiring. Gripping the shoulder straps of my backpack, I began the incline. Up and up and up till I found Travessa do Fala-So and followed the meandering quaint street until I reached the old Pink Palace; home of Equity Point Lisboa. This hostel welcomes you into the chill, relaxed and happy vibe of Portugal. It boasts large open common areas, courtyards and spacious rooms, with friendly and helpful staff to match.
To truly experience and see a city, I always opt for walking as it provides you with a much greater perspective and allows you to delve into small local alcoves that you might have missed otherwise. I embarked on a walking tour (Alfama/Old town tour) with Lisbon’s Wild Walkers starting from Rossio Square (Praca Dom Pedro IV) daily. This was the start of 3 hours of absolute fun, learning the history of Portugal and touring the city (Link to tour information below). My guide for the morning, Gonzalo, was a wealth of knowledge and entertainment, resulting in the day flying by, barely noticing the heat as we climbed the hill to the Castelo de Sao Jorge to visit some jaw-dropping views at lookouts along the way, and tour the famous Alfama neighbourhood. Not to mention the stories behind the many graffiti murals of tarts and fisherman. We ended the tour at the flea markets (Tuesdays and Saturdays only) not far from the Alfama neighbourhood with the instructions we should all go back there, get lost within and try the local delicacy of cod with cream for lunch. Being a fan of getting purposely lost in new cities, I set off with a couple of fellow travellers from my tour for a well-earned lunch.
Not far into the labyrinth of Alfama we stumbled upon a backstreet cafe with no signs or menus in English and what seemed like locals inside – we hit the jackpot. Almost. Taking a seat in the back corner whilst receiving many curious gazes, we attempted to decipher the menu, which luckily had pictures. With what we thought was success we soon picked out the dish: cod with cream. Within minutes the waiter took our order, brought us drinks and left us to it. Fifteen minutes later he returned with the news that there was no more cod and offered us a chicken dish. Mildly disappointed, we decided to go for the chicken as it felt like a truly authentic Portuguese restaurant and we couldn’t bring ourselves to leave. Another fifteen minutes passed and the waiter returned with the news that there was no chicken left and showed us the one and only dish they had left. At this stage we all decided on the next cafe. Five cafes and many backstreets later we found that they had all run out of fish for the day. Exhausted and starving, with the offer of grilled fresh fish, salad and tapas style entrees for a very reasonable price, we sat down in the cool shade. Sadly, this restaurant also had no cod with cream, but one of the most amazing grilled fish I have ever experienced, with the entrees of squid, chorizo and olives complementing the main that was to come. To our amusement on our way out of the maze back to the centre of Lisbon, we passed several local restaurants serving the famous – now infamous – cod with cream. Luckily for us our well-fed indulged stomachs did not mind and we felt lucky to have experienced such a unique and vibrant city.
Equity Point, Lisboa:
http://www.equity-point.com/en/hostels-lisboa/equity-point-lisboa/equity-point-lisboa-hostel.html
Wild Walkers, Lisboa:
Great post. I want some cod with cream!
Great story, feel like I was there too!