Why We’re Lucky To Be Surfers

Why do we do it? For many, we must seem like crazy people to get up at dawn and paddle out into icy shark-infested waters for a quick surf before work. What many of these people haven’t experienced, is the sheer joy of a life shared with the ocean. Similarly, they most definitely have never…

Abalone Fields on the South Coast

“Are you here alone?” he asked. “Sure am,” I replied with a grin as I began setting up my prime beachside spot for the night. I was stoked with my permanent room with a view—a view that changed daily the further I travelled south. “I was saying to the boys that she must be here…

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