Escaping the Paris Summer Sideshow

–          The secret entrance to the Louvre

Weaving your way through the masses and waiting in lines for hours does not sound like your ideal dream holiday or experience. Waiting in line for 3 hours at the Louvre staring at someone’s back…is that the way to experience the true culture of France? Paris has a vast array of sites that are one most travellers bucket list. However in the summer time the experience of these incredible sights are tainted by the swarm of tourists creating seas of people at the main attractions – the Notre Dame, The Eiffel Tower, Versailles, the Louvre and many others. So what do we do? How do we truly experience the best Paris has on offer.

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View over Paris from top of Basilica Sacre Coeur. Paris, France.

Buying tickets in advance saves you queuing up in the shorter line at most of the key attractions in Paris. This shortens your waiting time mildly as many others use this same tactic. If you make the effort to buy tickets in advanced and reach the sites early as they open or late afternoon you will have a much better experience. After waiting an hour in line to visit Versailles famous Chateau this traveller was disappointed as she found that she didn’t get to experience all the exhibitions as they were blocked by tightly packed bodies in very grand rooms. Opting for a tour and paying that extra little bit will help you jump the entrance line to the Chateau however once inside you are still packed in like a sardine. This is the toll for visiting Paris in the height of the summer season. The rest of the grounds in summer offered a much nicer experience and you can find the beauty and peace that the gardens provide. Marie Antoinette’s Estate also provided you with better insight into Versailles and the life led there as fewer tourist ventured into that part of the grounds.

Montmartre and the Basilica Sacre Coeur early in the morning provides you with a better feeling for Paris. With very few tourists and only locals setting up there stores and cafes you finally feel like you are experiencing the real Paris. And the beauty and charm that has made Montmartre so famous and renowned globally. A solo climb to the top of the Basilica provides incredible 360 degree views of the entire city and when in early no queue and you are able to sit and soak up Paris without the swarm you’d find at other popular sites in the city at this hour. A breakfast picnic overlooking Paris with the whole place to yourself is the most delightful way to begin your Parisian day. By the time you have explored what Montmartre has to offer and head back to the Metro you are stunned by the front steps of the Sacre Coeur covered with that all familiar swarm.

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Rare phenomenon: empty lawn outside Basilica Sacre Coeur. Paris, France.

The all too familiar site of the Louvre’s pyramid entrance and the snake of people lining up for up to 3 hours to get inside to see all the history, glory, beauty and fame inside. When planning your visit to the Louvre preparation is key and there are two options. Buy your tickets in advance, bring plenty of water maybe even a snack if you are planning to settle into the queue for the long haul. Timing is essential to beat the 3 hour standard wait. Arriving early or closer to closing time will minimise your wait time in line. Then there is Option B – The secret entrance. If you’re on the hostel circuit you have probably heard rumors almost myth of a secret entrance to the Louvre. However this entrance is no myth. I will not ruin the adventure of finding this entrance yourself or induce hoards of people to ruin the secret. But ask around. Charm local Parisians or ask fellow travelers as one of them will have learnt the secret. My journey involved three lovely informative Parisian girls, a dodgy newspaper man and a staircase.

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Crowds inside Versailles Palace. Versailles, France.

My experience of Versailles however was less enjoyable. Arriving late at the Palace entrance I had to endure an immense snaking line watching all those around me get progressively drenched in the spitting rain. The whole time I was wishing I had bought that tour for the extra 30 euros. However once inside being on your own allowed freedom to move your way through the rooms as tourist were packed in like sardines. Tour groups bearing the worst of the crammed spaces as their guide tried to explain what wondrous object they were looking at in the smallest amount of space possible. The audio guide given to non-tour visitors was highly informative and allowed you to explore at your own pace and know what was going on. My tiny party were thankful it was not a hot summer’s day in those tightly packed spaces. To explore the extensive grounds including the summer palace a clear day was wished for and I would have loved to set up and just enjoy a quiet corner (there are many) in the huge expanse of gardens, mazes, lawns and lakes. On our departure from Versailles the crowd hadn’t thinned or thickened so getting in early for the most amount of exploration time would be best and if you are first visitor of the day it would be a magical experience.

Back in my hostel sitting on the balcony overlooking the canal and reflecting on my time in Paris I know I will miss this city despite the horrendous summer crowds. It has been a very fast week and I look forward to the adventures to come.

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